Introduction

Aups is a stopover town between the Côte and the Verdon. Yet it's also a place worth discovering. The mountain bike tour described here isn't particularly long, and the elevation gain isn't daunting. However, there are long stretches on tracks covered with large, very uneven limestone scree. Sometimes they're also too steep to climb. So, it's often impossible to go fast. But we're rewarded with a superb view of the village of Aups, the Gros Bessillon and Petit Bessillon mountains, the Sainte-Baume, and even the Montagne Sainte-Victoire (these links point to hiking trails). During the descent, we explore several caves, some of which have been used by humans, like the Sainte-Magdeleine Chapel.

We ascend from the west and north and descend from the west and south.

The facts

13,9 km total distance

3 h 30 min movement time.

460 m total elevation

orientation average

mark 65% of the total distance

40% rutted forest roads

20% forest roads

20% hard-surfaced city alleys

5% moderate trails

5% hard-surfaced quiet side streets

5% passages too steep and to carry

5% very steep passages

<5% trail through a cave

<5% dirt roads

<5% easy trails

dangers Wind, fall on rough forest roads

children no

useful picnic stuff, puncture repair kit

required Hardtail mountain bike and water

GPS coordinates (WGS84) of start and end point 43.62720801218102,6.224157980312031

downloads

Public transport

Aups is only connected by bus to Draguignan, and Draguignan has direct connections to the Saint-Raphaël train station. Check the timetables and connections on Zou! (only french).

Access by car

Aups is located southwest of the Verdon Gorge and the Canjuers military camp. Whether coming from the Durance Valley (A51) or the A8 motorway, it always takes about fifty minutes on small country roads to reach the small town of Aups, the capital of the Haut-Var region.

Useful parking spaces

The starting point is on Place Frédéric Mistral, south of the church and the old town centre. There is a parking lot here, but it is often full and parking is prohibited on market days. It is recommended to turn at the large building housing the Maison de la Truffe (Truffle House) towards south and the gymnasium. There are three large parking lots there. These are also directly on the return route.

Hints

As mentioned in the introduction, the condition of the trails is the main challenge of this tour. The forest roads are covered with stones of varying sizes, sometimes in large quantities. Steep sections that could normally be climbed are there difficult to push because you slip. This will also give your arms a good workout.

The whole region is a zone with a high risk of forest fires. In summer, but also in other seasons when it is very dry or by strong winds, access to the forest areas can be regulated. As a result, the roads may be closed to traffic and/or the trails prohibited to hikers. Current information: Map of access to the forests of the Var (also english). The map shows the colours green, yellow, orange and red which correspond to levels of danger.

The sections

1. The Chemin des Devenseaux climbs west of the Montagne des Espiguières.
2. We follow the mountain's northern foot via the Grande Colle, a long, ascending valley.
3. The final climb begins at the Col du Bresc pass and leads to the Croix des Pins.
4. We then follow the ridge westward and descend to the Chapelle Sainte-Trinité.
5. Exploration of the Grottes d'Aups and return to the starting point.

Section 1: Chemin des Devenseaux

➙ 2,6 km ... 35 min ➚ 125 m ➘ 15 m ↝ easy

   ↙ Colours of the sections like MTB rating but without the duration.

80% hard-surfaced city alleys, few marks

20% forest roads, few marks

Behind the large triangular square of plane trees at the foot of the old center of Aups is this fountain, and to the right, the Collegiate Church of Saint Pancrace.

To avoid the crowds on the main street and the one-way street, we turn right just behind the church.

During the establishment of the Napoleonic dictatorship, the insurgents of Aups took refuge in the church on December 10, 1851. They were all killed, arrested, deported, or imprisoned. On December 9, 1905, the law separating church and state was finally promulgated. It was at this time that the people of Aups placed the motto of the French Republic above the church portal (Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité), also in part as a reminder of 1851.

Just after turning behind the church, take the first alley on the left. A sign indicates a width restriction of 1.5 meters, so you won't encounter many cars here.

This alley climbs steeply. You'll be warmed up by the top!

At the very top, turn left to reach a gate in the medieval walls.

The name Porte des Aires comes from the public threshing floors where grain was treaded. Located on higher ground and exposed to the wind, it was easier to separate the grains from the dust and husks.

Exit through this gate onto a roundabout where you turn left. Be careful, there is often a lot of traffic here.

Alternatively, you can drive on the sidewalk to the left and cross at the pedestrian crossing to avoid going around the roundabout.

We don't linger long on this northern ring road around Aups. We take the first right. We're now on the Chemin des Devensaux.

There are several ways to spell it: it's also found as Devenseaux or Devencaux. It's a local variant of the word Défens, which historically referred to a pasture or wood reserved for the lord, and therefore forbidden to the common people.

This road accompanies us to the end of this first section.

It's initially quite freshly paved up to the ruins of the Sainte-Anne Chapel.

Beyond that point, the tarmac is older but in good condition. However, the constant incline soon becomes noticeable.

We pass this single hairpin bend.

This road manages to maintain its gradient in a very rocky environment.

Further up, we reach a more uniform area planted mainly with olive trees.

This doesn't mean the slope changes, however.

We pass a few isolated houses. They offer views of the Bessillons and Sainte-Baume mountains.

At this intersection, the asphalt turns into a dirt track in good condition.

We continue straight ahead, and after a few meters, there's a slight descent leading to the junction at L'Estré with the AUP09 water tank.

During this descent, we can even take the time to admire the well-maintained olive groves.

Section 2: Piste de la Grande Colle

➙ 3,6 km ... 35 min ➚ 145 m ➘ 0 m ↝ easy

   ↙ Colours of the sections like MTB rating but without the duration.

100% rutted forest roads, few marks

We turn right at the water tank AUP09 and stay on the main path for over three kilometres and 145 meters of elevation gain ahead.

We're so busy pedalling and searching for the smoothest path that we don't realize we're passing several bends in a slightly narrower valley.

The valley becomes straighter. It runs west-south-west, and in the mornings during spring and autumn, we're already well into the sun. The gradient and the condition of the track remain the same, and this is when it becomes difficult.

We pass several junctions that we have to ignore. This one is the only one to the right and to the south. This would be the direct route to Croix des Pins, but this track in the Ravine is too steep. So we wisely stay on our Grande Colle track.

Numbered water tanks mark our path. Continue straight ahead here.

Ignore all left turns and ride straight ahead.

In spring, at least there are flowers here. Otherwise, this section is typical: a constant climb with varying bad gravel surfaces.

There are also many sections with very bumpy surfaces. Naturally, this slows you down considerably on the climbs.

This trail is marked with small black enduro mountain bike markers (very difficult) on the climbs but not on the descents. However, it's clear that it's rarely, if ever, used, as there are no visible tracks.

We also ignore these left turns and always stay to the right.

This AUP18 water tank is located almost at the Col du Bresc pass. We gradually turn right here to finally begin climbing the ridge of the Montagne des Espiguières. We take the right fork at the next junction and thus continue uphill.

Section 3: Col du Bresc - Croix des Pins

➙ 2,3 km ... 45 min ➚ 125 m ➘ 60 m ↝ easy

   ↙ Colours of the sections like MTB rating but without the duration.

10% rutted forest roads, few marks

20% passages too steep and to carry, few marks
   ↖ obligation to push/carry the bike

20% rutted forest roads, few marks

35% forest roads, few marks

10% moderate trails, with marks
   ↖ leave the bike and explore on foot

So we turn right here at the small cairn. The junction isn't any better marked.

A little further on is this large, old cairn on the left. A path also descends to the left here, later joining the track towards Aups. This is where the old paths used to run, the forest tracks reveal the pass further down.

We continue straight ahead, however.

We pass this barrier, and it still looks fairly easy.

But things quickly get difficult. The gradient exceeds 13%, and the track is covered with a layer of loose gravel that doesn't withstand the force of our rear wheels. So we push.

Here the path splits. The left-hand path leads to the mountain's highest point, but the slope is even steeper and the view is no better than at the cross later on. So we stay on the right-hand path.

At times, the gravel is smaller and more stable, allowing us to climb back up and pedal. It's still a bit of a slog, though.

When the left-hand path rejoins our route, we're on the mountain plateau. It even descends again, so we can let our mountain bikes roll freely.

We pass this junction, which corresponds to the direct climb to the cross seen before form La Grande Colle valley. So we stay here on the left.

Shortly after, we reach the AUP17 cistern and a sign clearly indicating the path to the cross.

Take the left-hand path here.

The trail crosses natural limestone terrain, and we haven't found a way to ride here. So we leave the mountain bikes at the side of the path quite early and continue on foot.

We take our panniers because we'll have lunch at the cross.

There we are, the first goal of the day is achieved.

In the center of the cross is a flat, oval mirror. We don't know if it reflects some special ray of light at a particular time of year. At the ends of the crossbar are LED lights powered by small solar panels, so the cross can be seen at night from the plain and from Aups at night.

Descending further past the cross, the view opens up to a panoramic 180 degrees to the south.

The two prominent green mountains in the center are the Gros Bessillon and the Petit Bessillon. Just behind them rise the Sainte-Baume and Mont Aurélien. Further still, in the distance, could be the Chaîne de l'Étoile mountain range. The distinctive dome to the right is none other than Sainte-Victoire, seen from the east. To the left, more diffuse, lies the Massif des Maures.

Section 4: Descente par les Devensaux

➙ 3,1 km ... 40 min ➚ 20 m ➘ 270 m ↝ average

   ↙ Colours of the sections like MTB rating but without the duration.

10% moderate trails, leave the bike and explore on foot

40% forest roads, without marks

15% very steep passages, without marks

30% rutted forest roads, without marks

10% hard-surfaced quiet side streets, without marks

We return from Croix des Pins to the track with the AUP17 water tank and turn left.

As long as we stay on the ridge, the downhill slope is gentle. The track's condition varies, but it's mostly very rough.

About 900 meters past the AUP17 water tank, the steep descent begins.

The photo shows the point where it starts to get steeper.

We have about one kilometre to cover on a track in this condition, with gradients reaching 14%. There are sections where the limestone debris causes the front wheel to slip sidewise by about 20 centimetres, which is very dangerous. It's best to get off your bike then.

When you encounter this concrete the track, it means the gradient is getting steeper. The concrete provides good grip, but it's a real workout for your arms!

At the bottom, we turn left.

We find ourselves back on a dirt road that is a little gentler around the AUP08 tank.

At this intersection, we keep right, continuing downhill.

For a while now, our descent has been marked by large stone markers. They delineate a section of the southwest slope of the Montagne des Espiguières. Does anyone know their significance?

A little further down, three switchbacks lead to a wider bend. Here, the road is in the worst condition, with large, loose debris piled up on the track.

The bends aren't the most difficult part, it's the straight sections between the switchbacks that are particularly bumpy.

Near the first house, we reach a concrete section. It slopes gently, however, and further on, there's asphalt. We pass a bigger water reservoir and continue downhill.

We arrive at this large crossroads, which is a turnaround area. Hidden in the bushes directly ahead is an old chapel!

It's a small 11th-century chapel about which little is known. A milestone was used as a building block in the base of one of the walls. A doorway was cut into the side when the building was converted into a barn.

We ride around the chapel along the road to its right and take the first path on the left.

Section 5: Les Grottes d'Aups

➙ 2,2 km ... 1 h ➚ 45 m ➘ 115 m ↝ difficult

   ↙ Colours of the sections like MTB rating but without the duration.

5% forest roads, few marks

10% trail through a cave, without marks
   ↖ leave the bike and explore on foot

<5% forest roads, few marks

20% hard-surfaced quiet side streets, without marks

5% moderate trails, without marks

5% trail through a cave, without marks
   ↖ leave the bike and explore on foot

15% moderate trails, few marks

10% hard-surfaced city alleys, without marks

15% dirt roads, without marks

5% easy trails, without marks

10% hard-surfaced city alleys, without marks

So, we turned left under the Sainte Trinité Chapel. We find ourselves on an easy forest track. It brings us straight to the most important caves in the cliffs above Aups.

We park our mountain bikes under the trees because we were now going to pass through four caves in a row.

These caverns aren't particularly long, but the composition of the rock makes that there are several openings in the same cave.

Thus, one can enter the small opening #1 and emerge fairly quickly into the access arch of the larger cave #2.

This opening is about twenty meters high and is initially easily accessible on a gravel floor. But very soon, one must climb over rocks.

Advancing in a fairly straight line, one arrives at a slope composed of rock debris fallen from the ceiling. Ahead, below, lies a vast, dark chamber. Descent is possible with a good flashlight, but it's a dead end. However, one can feel a draft, so there must be another opening. We'll find it soon!

No trace of human occupation is visible in these caves. But it's highly likely they were occupied during the protohistoric period. The Aven de Plérimond, south of Aups, houses an Iron Age ossuary. Its use is attested until the 4th century CE.

Heading left of the debris embankment, we see a light. We continue along it and emerge through another large natural portal. In front of this cave, number 3, is a sort of terrace.

We exit by turning right, thus moving further away from the mountain bikes parked below.

We reach another large portal, under which we can proceed straight into cave number 4. This is a dead end for us.

On the left is a kind of shaft, and we feel a draft. Looking ahead, not down, we see an opening with a faint glimmer. This is the passage to the large hall we saw at the back of cave number 2.

We then return to the bikes. We can take one of the paths through the forest without having to follow the base of the cliff. After that, we take our bikes again and drive on the now smaller path downhill.

Not even 40 meters further on, we reach a fork in the path. We can go left uphill here. It's a concrete path that winds between the rocks. The climb is very steep, yet it's only a 35-meter elevation gain. We arrive at a gate leading up to an isolated house. The Saint-Marc Chapel is located there, but it remains inaccessible to us.

On feet and turning left, we see a dry-stone wall. We follow it, and in the cliff face to the left, there's another opening. We quickly reach an iron gate, which is open. It's a dark, narrow passage about fifteen meters long that once served as a cellar. We then return to the path that runs alongside the main caves and continue downhill to the left.

About forty meters further along the main path, you come to a cave-like chamber fitted with a staircase supported by a 4-meter-high wall.

The chamber is about twenty meters long. Besides the wall at the entrance, there is a second dividing wall. This could be the Chapelle St. Philipp, which is mentioned in some sources.

The straight shape is only noticeable when you are at the back and looking towards the single opening, the one through which we entered.

A little further down, we arrive at the cave with the most significant features. This is the Chapelle Sainte Magdeleine.

The cave has a large opening closed off by a wall over 10 meters high.

The niche above the entrance once housed a statue of St. Mary Magdalene.

Besides the door, the wall has two other openings, including an oculus. The interior is large, but the cavern may have been divided into several levels.

At the base of the cave's natural walls is a stone bench containing a fairly large holy water font.

The cave appears to have been converted into a chapel around 1635 by the villagers. It became a hermitage in 1666. Mary Magdalene is associated with caves. Another, much better-known cave with the same name is located on the northern slope of the Sainte-Baume (hiking trail).

At the back are the remains of an altar from the early 20th century.

Not far below, there is another cavern slightly higher up.

Steps carved into the rock and a terrace are visible. There was undoubtedly an oratory here.

We arrive at the last of the caves, which is worth a short visit. It is untouched by medieval structures. The entrance is small, you have to stoop a bit, but you arrive in a narrow, but high, chamber.

Further ahead to the left are the other openings of this cave. It would require a considerable climb to exit that way. These same openings can be seen from the outside. Exiting through the lower opening and keeping to the right while following the cliff edge, you quickly reach this crevice with several notches.

Just below the last cave is this fork in the path. You could continue straight ahead, but there are some high steps to climb. So, take the left fork.

Continue immediately after, also turning left.

The path is narrow, and you have to feel your way around a bit to follow an old dry-stone wall a little further on.

The path reaches a fork where we bear right.

So we return to the main path along the wall topped with a wire fence. This descent can be overgrown. The ground is made of uneven limestone, so we have to drive slowly.

Nevertheless, we soon reach a narrow road which we follow downhill.

This road takes us between two houses. Just before the bottleneck, you can plunge your hands and head into some cool water on the left.

This canal used to supply water to the mills further down. It's possible that this stream dries up in the summer.

We continue downhill in a straight line and descend the last few meters of the hard-won elevation gain at the beginning of the tour.

We cross Avenue Charles Boyer (D77), being careful of cars which have the right of way here. Opposite, we continue onto the unpaved road. It's called Carraire No. 1.

This path becomes increasingly narrow. Finally, we think we've arrived in someone's garden. But you have to turn right before the large hedge.

We are now at the lowest point of the tour, at 485 meters above sea level.

We continue straight ahead beyond the path. We pass several parking lots, a gymnasium, and tennis courts. Further on, we arrive at the Maison de la Truffe, and a little to the left, we reach the square in front of the church where we started this tour.

Sources and additional information

It is better to use a good topographic hiking map: this tour is on the IGN map "Aups, Salernes", scale 1:25000, 3443OT.

If you don't want to bother with a paper map, you can also use mapping apps on your cell phone. On the one hand, it is the Cartes IGN app from the official map service. However, it requires access to the data network and this is sometimes difficult in canyons or remote locations.

Alternatively, you can use apps that store data directly on the device. They're generally not free, but they don't cost much. We mainly use OSMAnd, here it is possible to add contour lines, relief shading, markings and others. To store this data on your phone you need a lot of space.

Of course, one needs access to satellites for the GPS signal with any app. In some canyons this is not the case. Therefore, do not rely on the position shown, but read the map on your phone as you would read it on paper. Most apps are available for Android and iPhone. The applications usually allow us to record the route travelled and also view the GPS files offered for each of our hikes.